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Segesta – A Temple, an Ancient Rivalry and a Very Clever Trick

Just a short drive from Trapani, surrounded by peaceful Sicilian countryside, stands one of the island's most extraordinary archaeological sites.

Segesta was once a powerful city of the Elymians, an ancient people who inhabited western Sicily long before the Romans arrived.

Warm golden light raking across the unfinished Doric temple of Segesta on a hillside, thirty-six limestone columns standing stark against distant green Sicilian mountains and dry summer grass
Warm golden light raking across the unfinished Doric temple of Segesta on a hillside, thirty-six limestone columns standing stark against distant green Sicilian mountains and dry summer grass
Ancient semicircular stone theater of Segesta carved into the limestone hillside, looking out over rolling Sicilian hills toward the hazy blue sea of Castellammare at late afternoon
Ancient semicircular stone theater of Segesta carved into the limestone hillside, looking out over rolling Sicilian hills toward the hazy blue sea of Castellammare at late afternoon

From Troy to Sicily – The Legend of Segesta

According to ancient mythology, Segesta was founded by Acestes, a legendary hero born to a Trojan woman and the Sicilian river god Crimisus.

The legend connects the city to the survivors of the Trojan War, although archaeology suggests the Elymians developed from communities already living in Sicily.

Whatever the true origins, Segesta became an important city with powerful neighbours — and not always friendly ones!

The Temple That Was Never Finished

Segesta's greatest treasure is its spectacular Doric temple, built around 430–420 BC.

Standing among the hills with 36 enormous columns, it looks almost perfectly preserved.

But here's the surprising part: the temple was never completed!

Its roof and inner chamber were never finished. Historians believe construction may have stopped because of the conflicts that shook western Sicily towards the end of the 5th century BC.

And even today, nobody knows for certain which god or goddess the temple was intended to honour.

How Segesta Helped Drag Athens Into Disaster

Here's one of my favourite stories from ancient Sicily.

Segesta had a long-running rivalry with the Greek city of Selinunte. In 415 BC, the Segestans sought military help from Athens.

According to the ancient historian Thucydides, they wanted to convince the Athenians that they could pay for a major military expedition.

So what did they do?

They borrowed gold and silver tableware from neighbouring cities and displayed it at different banquets, making themselves look far wealthier than they actually were!

The Athenians were impressed. A massive military expedition followed, and it eventually ended in disaster for Athens.

Not bad for a little Sicilian city playing a very dangerous political game!

Don't Miss the Ancient Theatre

High above the temple, on Mount Barbaro, stands another spectacular monument — Segesta's ancient theatre.

Dating mainly to the 2nd century BC, it once accommodated thousands of spectators and offers incredible views over the surrounding hills.

And the best part? The theatre is still used for performances today!

During the summer Segesta Teatro Festival, visitors can enjoy theatre, music and cultural events in this extraordinary historic setting.

More Than Just Greek Ruins

Keep exploring and you'll discover the remains of ancient city walls, streets, an agora, and even evidence of a medieval Muslim settlement and a mosque.

Segesta wasn't frozen in time after the Greeks and Romans. People continued living here for centuries.

Tips Before You Go

  • Allow 2–3 hours to visit the temple, theatre and archaeological remains.

  • Take the shuttle bus if you don't fancy walking uphill to the theatre, especially during summer.

  • Bring water, sunscreen and comfortable shoes. Shade is limited.

  • Visit in spring or autumn for pleasant walking temperatures and beautiful countryside.

  • Don't skip the theatre! The panoramic views alone are worth the trip.

Is Segesta Worth Visiting?

Absolutely. Even if ancient history isn't usually your thing, standing beside a 2,400-year-old temple surrounded by Sicilian mountains is something special.

My recommendation? Visit the temple first, then head up to the theatre and take a moment to enjoy the view.

And remember — these peaceful hills were once the setting for political intrigues, legendary heroes, and struggles between some of the most powerful civilisations of the ancient Mediterranean.